Sunday, November 25, 2012
Time's Up! or How I Plan to Survive the End of the World
Sunday, October 21, 2012
Bagel Nation
Sunday, September 30, 2012
Confessions of a Sideline Parent, or "Pass it to Dakota!"
Saturday, August 25, 2012
Man vs. Meat
I’ve made some bad decisions in my life. Celebrating my love of taffy minutes after costly dental work, taunting a 6’ 4” meaty-fisted bouncer, letting the glassy-eyed older brother of a friend “cut” my hair with rusty shears. Michael Dukakis. But this one tops them all. This time I may have gone too far. I’ve just finished my first mouthful of the Inferno Challenge burger, and I can’t feel my face.
It didn’t take much for me to accept this dare. There’s a place out in Boscawen that’ll put your picture on the wall if you finish a super-spicy one-pound burger in twenty minutes. So here I am at the Smoke Shack Southern Barbeque restaurant (“Where the Swine is Fine”) with my two kids, hoping they don’t see me burst into flames. Eating a one-pound burger and fries is old hat, but what I didn’t expect was the heat. This thing is like a loaf of hot magma with cheese, and my lips are searing. My wife is here too, offering me words of encouragement like, “Take your time,” and “Just how much life insurance did you say there was?” My head’s spinning and my entire face, mouth, lips, throat and stomach are engulfed in intense heat.
When I arrived twenty minutes earlier, I scanned the Wall of Fame, confident I’d soon join the ranks of the Challenge winners, this hale band of conquerors proud in their Polaroid portraits. There’s Jumbo Ketchum next to Haley Levesque right near Nathan Small, Andy Turgeon, Jack and a nameless photo of a kid who looks like he just escaped from a Doomsday cult, stopping in for a meal en route to the deprogramming. And then there’s Mark, who owns the fastest Challenge completion, finishing this monster chili pepper-infused beast in ten minutes.
Our server, Lexi Potter-Craigue, takes my family’s order and outlines the rules. “You have to finish everything in under twenty minutes – the burger, the bun, the jalapenos and all the fries. Don’t ignore the fries. You can drink anything you want – I don’t recommend soda. Stick to water or milk. Oh, and you’re gonna be in a little bit of pain,” Lexi says as she walks back to the kitchen after telling me a woman eight months pregnant met the Challenge earlier this year. “No pressure,” my son says to me.
I follow Lexi into the kitchen, and she introduces me to Joe Carey. Joe’s been working as a chef at the Smoke Shack for two years, and he walks me through the Challenge burger recipe, taking a metal mixing bowl and showing me the four types of peppers he’ll mix into the pound of ground beef. “I don’t wear a mask when I do this, but some guys do.” As Joe pours the liquid and flakes into the bowl, the other employees make slight moves away from him. It’s never a good sign when the people entrusted to serve the food don’t want to be near the food. “Are you eating that?” another chef asks me, and I nod my head. “Opportunity of a lifetime,” he says with a wide grin.
The Scoville Scale is a universal method used to gauge a pepper’s hotness. For example, a red bell pepper in your salad has zero Scoville heat units and no rating while a police officer’s pepper spray in your face has a upwards of 2 million heat units, earning a 10 out of 10 on the heat scale.
“We start with jalapenos,” (a mere 8,000 heat units and a 4 on the scale), “followed by the habaneros and the Scotch bonnets,” (both rated 350,000 heat units and a 9 on the heat scale), “and then we add the ghost peppers,” Joe says with no emotion. The ghost pepper, or Naga Jolokia, is one of the world’s hottest peppers, earning a 1 million Scoville heat unit and a 10 rating. “Naga Jolokia!” is probably what I’ll be yelping after the first bite, based on the tingling in my nose and eyes from this concoction Joe’s now kneading through his fingers. A few moments later Joe cooks the burger alone in a skillet. “We can’t use the grille because everything else we serve today would smell like this,” he says, the burger a bubbling brick of amber and orange in the pan. The scent is overwhelming as I return to the table.
Just as my wife and kids finish their lunches, enjoying every morsel on their plates, Lexi arrives with my meal. The burger sits in the center of the plate, surrounded by a burial mound-sized heap of Cajun-seasoned French fries. Lexi brings a glass of whole milk and water as well as a small bit of ranch dressing. “Your twenty minutes starts when you start eating,” she says.I begin with three quick bites, hoping to head-fake my senses before the alarms go off. No such luck. In seconds my entire mouth is engulfed in flaming pain. I sip the milk to ward off this sensation, but it doesn’t work. Five minutes into it and I can’t talk, and any words of encouragement my family offers now sounds like Satan and his henchmen chortling in a distorted, slow-motion guffaw. Past winners – Jumbo, Jack and that kid from the cult – stare down at me impassively as I try in vain to balance fries with bites of what I’m now sure of is a special slice of hell on a bun.
My bites have turned to nibbles, and my hands and shoulders are shaking. The heat’s now deep in my stomach and even the fries, only lightly dusted in Cajun spice, hit my lips like yellow jacket stings. It’s been close to fifteen minutes when I give up. When your extremities start to tingle and your chest hurts, it’s time to reassess. “That was really sad to watch,” my daughter says, inquiring about the ice cream menu.
It’s 2 AM, more than half a day since the SS Inferno hit the rocky shoal that is my gullet, and I’m wide awake. It’s like I have the flu combined with the aftermath of a fortified wine bender. My stomach feels like a possum’s trying to mate with a Wankel rotary engine, and the noises emerging from behind my belly button sound like a family of tone-deaf tree frogs playing the Glockenspiel. Things are not good. The ghost peppers are more than haunting me - they’re mocking me for every bad decision I’ve made in my life. With every lurch my innards make, my conscience tells me to think twice the next time, to look before I lunch on something so intense.
And in the deep darkness of the pre-dawn, I vow to never make another bad decision. Except if it involves ice cream – nothing bad happens after too much ice cream.
Sunday, July 29, 2012
A Brewed Awakening
“Pull your hair back, wear closed-toed shoes and a shirt with sleeves,” Sara the barista tells me over the phone. If she thinks I’m showing up for my first-ever shift as a barista in huarache sandals, a tank top and a free-flowing mullet, she’s got me all wrong. I’ve been dreaming of this day for a while, and I don’t dream in hairnets and flabby underarms.
I meet Sara Judy early the next morning as she’s opening up. Sara opens every morning at True Brew Barista, one of Concord’s true coffee houses and my home, off and on, for the next few days. I’m here to learn the ropes –to get a dollop of what it’s like to be a barista, to grind and brew some beans, make frozen drinks and try to look as calm and competent as Sarah and her coworkers do every time I’m in here.
True Brew hit the scene in 2009, when Rob and Steph Zinser opened the doors in Bicentennial Square to Concord’s coffee and tea drinkers who’d grown sick of the drive-thru selections, tired of the gas station varieties and bored with every-day home brewed beverages. True Brew’s been offering espresso, drip coffee and every variation in between ever since, not to mention more tea than a man can drink in one lifetime.
Sara’s been a barista at True Brew since the summer of 2010, when she came to Concord in pursuit of her then-boyfriend, now-husband and co-worker Sean Ring. Sara hails from a town of 650 people on the prairies of Saskatchewan, Canada. “People love to talk to baristas,” she says, “and working here really helped me connect with the community.” And she means it. She and her husband Sean are so connected to this community of coffee drinkers that they held their wedding ceremony earlier this summer right out front of True Brew in the brick and fountain-adorned Square. “I’d live upstairs if there was an open apartment,” she says with a laugh.
About five minutes into the shift, it’s clear Sara’s customers feel that same connection – evident by the variation of the stink eye I’m getting from all of them. “Who’s this lurker? Why is he distracting my Sara? I bet he drinks decaf!” They eye me with contempt so I retreat into the shadows until Sara’s ready for me.
Now the lesson begins. Sara shows me how to prep, clean, grind, measure, tamp, brew, assess and pour a double shot of espresso, emphasizing the importance of never letting stray grinds into the brew. She cleans the handle, and after filling it, she has a lightning-quick habit of pressing down into the grind and tapping the sides to shake away any loose grounds. “The trick is to apply just enough pressure – too much and your espresso’s bitter; not enough and you have a mess.” She says this as “pulls” the shot and smacks the handle against the knock box, clearing out the hot grinds to get ready for the next double shot. She later explains that the quality of the espresso can be judged a few ways – first, you can see if your puck – the spent grounds – hold together as you “knock the puck into the box.” Secondly, just after the espresso shot’s been pulled, you can see what the “crema” looks like. The crema’s the tan-colored foam on the top of the shot, the liquid folding in and around itself as the hot liquid settles in the shot glass.
I try and pull a double shot of dark roast, knocking a so-so puck into the box as the crema envelopes the sides of my glass. “Apply more pressure next time,” Sara tells me. I drink the espresso fast and try again and again, drinking everything I pull. Sara told me that one of the benefits of working at True Brew is having all the coffee I want. I’m taking full advantage of this, at least until my heart gives out. It’s not quite 8:30 in the morning, and I’ve had enough caffeine to stop a rhino, win an MMA bout and watch The View simultaneously.
Sara doesn’t say things I thought baristas would say. Instead of statements like, “Decaf cap with a double hazelnut shot,” or “Dry macchiato extra hot skinny with vanilla,” she says things like, “All the vegans I know are chain smokers,” and “They call me ‘The Giant.’”
Everything about True Brew is groovy – from the seven-foot Viking to the chalkboard menus to the vaguely atonal acoustic music you can barely hear above the hiss of the steaming milk. Specialty drinks like the Bikini Bottom, Phrosty Penguin and the Fluffy Bunny compete with a roster of teas for attention. This place is a real tea party, minus the angry pensioners on Medicare-funded scooters. Where else in town can you choose between the Paimutan Peony, Russian Caravan and Green Mango, not to be outdone by the Dragonswell, a cup of iced Blood Orange or the ever-inscrutable Lapsong Sauchang?
I don’t recall how my training shift ended except I remember not wanting anymore coffee that day. A few days later I return. Today is Day One of Market Days, Concord’s three-day outdoor celebration of culture, community, commerce and cheese fries. Rob puts me to work outside, where I stand for the next three hours selling beer to the crowd checking out the rotating local bands, who play everything from foot-tapping jazz standards to original pieces to Grateful Dead covers.
I’m not sure serving beer is a real barista activity, but this is fun! Little girls twirl around in the late afternoon breeze as a couple arrives with ferrets draped across their shoulders. One customer’s making a dent in my canned beer collection, taking a roundabout course towards me every time – like he’d just shown up and was surprised we sold beer. “Cool! Gimme a PBR,” he says. I oblige and he sits right back down where he was before he did his slow serpentine through the crowd. A guy in plaid shorts is on stage with his band, rocking his ukulele like nobody’s business as the crowd cheers. Outdoor beer garden barista duty is a nice way to spend a summer night.
It’s finally my time to head inside, and Sara and Sean put me to work, sending me to Penuche’s for a bucket of ice. “Don’t forget to filter that ice!” Sean yells as I return. Nobody told me I had to filter it, I think, starting to panic. Sean starts laughing, knowing the new guy falls for the filtered ice trick all the time. I half-expect him to send me to the Capital building in search of the double-barreled left-handed bean grinder. Instead, he shows me how to make a smoothie, and seconds later I take my first real order. The customer wants a frozen coffee drink. Before disaster strikes, Sara quietly reminds me that I should probably stop making a hot espresso shot, explaining the physics of ice and hot liquids, pointing out the cold espresso for my use instead.
I recover to make a 32-oz. chocolate masterpiece to calories, ice and caffeine. As more customers arrive, I try my hand at a few other drinks, managing to not quite perfect my puck but drinking at least four more shots of espresso before it’s time to go. I notice one of tonight’s barista’s left a perfectly shaped puck on the knock box, a signature to master craftsmanship of espresso making.
It’s getting late. Sara hands me my share of tips for the night, the most gratifying $20 in singles and quarters I’ve ever held. Barista duty is fun. You need a little bit of skill, lots of practice and someone like Sara whispering instruction in your ear, even if her husband makes you filter the ice.