Sunday, January 22, 2012

Suspended in Ice - A Day on the Top of the World

Suspenders. I’m standing among rocks encrusted in thick rime ice on the tallest peak in New England, the wind whips against my body, and I can see the Atlantic Ocean in the distance. Turning around I spy distant lakes (Winnipesauke and Sebago), ski mountains (Gunstock, Attitash, Wildcat and Shawnee Peak, to name a few), and ranges in Vermont and New York. The scenery is almost too much to describe. But the only word that comes to mind is “suspenders.”

There is nothing like a wind chill of minus 28 degrees on your backside to remind you to add suspenders to your birthday wish list. The wind has a habit of finding any exposed skin, and my pants, I’m realizing, need a little adjusting to account for this bitter cold that would turn any plumber’s smile into a frostbitten frown in seconds.

It’s been close to five hours since we started this day, down at the base of Mount Washington. Eight of us signed up for a Winter Day Trip with the Mount Washington Observatory, and our guide, Jeff DeRosa is pointing out the clouds over the Gulf of Maine, far off to the east. We’re next to him along the south edge of the summit - the Observatory, communication towers and buildings are behind us, and Jeff’s explaining rime ice. “It’s frozen fog – the suspended water in the clouds freeze on the first thing it comes in contact with, so what you’re standing on isn’t snow – it’s rime ice.” The rocks, buildings, wires, poles and signs are coated in a brilliant white. Rime ice looks like ivory coral, patterns of prisms, swirls and clusters blanketing everything we see. And if I don’t hike up my pants, I’ll be taking some rime ice home with me.

Jeff’s a fantastic guide. He met us earlier down at the base of the Auto Road where we rendezvoused for this Observatory-sponsored journey. The Day Trip is part of the Observatory’s mission to “Advance understanding of the natural systems that create the Earth’s weather and climate.” The first thing Jeff said to us was, “It’s cold today!” When a guy who’s spent most of his adult winters either on the summit of Mount Washington or at the South Pole (average temperature minus 100 degrees) tells you it’s cold, you better be prepared.

This group, a family trio from Maine, a pair from Vermont and a few of us from the Granite State, is covered head to toe in gear. I’m wearing six layers on my upper body, three on my legs, a neck warmer, balaclava for my head and face, a hat, glove liners and gloves, two pair of thick socks and fancy winter mountaineering boots that look like footwear for the stylish Mars explorer of the future.

We load up the huge white Snow Cat, a boxy tractor/truck that rides on thick treads, sports a massive grader/plow in the front and seats each of us in heated comfort. Our driver, Pete Roberts, steers the Cat towards the Auto Road entrance, and we head up. Mount Adams looms above to our right, its white peak stark against the brilliant blue sky.

Pete makes a few stops along the eight mile trek upward. At each stop, we marvel at the view and at the fact that the weather’s quite good for a mountain that boasts “the world’s worst weather.” Jeff tells us how today is “not typical. This is rare. We’re normally walking in clouds. We never get sunny days like this,” he says. Most of us ditch hats and gloves, but something tells me it won’t last. Twenty minutes later we pull over, the tree line a distant memory. The Auto Road snakes back and forth above us, and the wind makes me take notice. I leave the shelter of the Snow Cat, and the cold air smacks me in the face.

We arrive at the summit, and Jeff and Pete hustle us into the main entrance, off-limit to the half-dozen hikers who’re milling around out of the wind’s reach. They all walked up here today, putting their crampons and ice axes to good use. I admit feeling a little guilty as I complain about how chilly it is while walking past. One guy’s eating handfuls of gorp, his face a mixture of exhaustion, elation and determination.

We remove our outer layers and head down to the living quarters. We meet the two volunteers, Steve Moore and Pat Luddy, who’ve made us turkey vegetable soup. The warm broth is perfect. Steve’s been volunteering on the summit for more than thirteen years, and Pat, a retired doctor and hospital administrator from New Haven, tells me he looks forward to this week in the winter more than any other in the year. Volunteers arrive on a Wednesday and stay for seven nights, cooking for the Weather Observatory’s staff and visitors like us. “This week’s been amazing,” Pat says. “We’ve had every kind of weather you can imagine.” To his left I can see a screen showing the current weather outside. The wind’s around 45 mph, and the wind chill’s close to minus 30. We need to keep our voices down – one of the Observers is asleep. The Weather Center runs non-stop, all day every day, and the Observers and one intern take turns sleeping while the others record the weather and maintain the instruments.

After lunch, we add our layers and head to the Observation Tower, the highest point of the Observatory and the “center of our weather collection,” as Jeff says. We walk out onto the circular platform and feel the wind push against us. It’s my turn at the top of the tower, and I climb up a metal ladder to a small turret, the Pitot tube anemometer perched above me, collecting the wind speed. At this moment, I’m literally on top of the world, or at least on top of New England. Later, Jeff tells me that the staff has to climb out here hourly when the clouds come in to knock off the rime ice that builds up on the instruments. “The ice can grow about eight inches an hour, so we use crowbars to knock it off. It can get pretty intense.”

On the drive up, Jeff told us about the Century Club. Membership to this club requires Observatory members to walk upright and unaided the entire length of the building’s promenade in sustained winds of at least 100 mph – up and back. Considering I was teetering in wind speeds less than half that strength, I can only imagine how hard it must be to earn that merit badge.

After more than two hours outside, Jeff takes us in for a cup of coffee and a tour of the Weather Center. The Observatory’s Weather Center’s been an official part of Mount Washington for more than 80 years. We see what could be “The US Wind Gust Hall of Fame” along one wall. Plaques commemorate some of the most memorable gusts ever recorded on the planet, from the July 1996 blast of 154 mph to the December 1980wind speed of 182 mph, equal to a Category 5 Hurricane.

“Just wind, baby!” ought to be the observatory’s slogan. Wind speeds are recorded on a Hays Wind Chart, which looks like a slow-moving paper turntable mounted on the wall. Each day’s wind is recorded on a circle of graph paper, a red marker recording the wind at exact intervals. “The farther away the red gets from the center, the stronger the wind,” explains Jeff. Glancing over his shoulder at the 1980 Hall of Fame entry, I witness the jagged red lines screaming out from the center of the graph, reaching the circle’s outer ring on what must have been quite a day for kite flying.

Jeff shows us a massive topographical map on the wall, explaining why the wind’s so ferocious up here. “If you look at Mount Washington, you can see how the hills to the northwest help create a funnel, forcing the wind up the valley towards the summit.” Mount Washington’s really at the top of nature’s New England wind tunnel.

We’re keeping our voices down as Rick Giard, one of the Observatory’s weather observers, delivers a distance learning session via webcam to a classroom somewhere far away. We can hear Rick explain how temperature, wind, barometric pressure and other measures are captured hourly and shared with the world. Rick finishes the broadcast and points out that today’s highest wind was 68 mph. “It was 122 last week, and yesterday we had 95 mile an hour winds. That’s when you know about kinetic energy!” At that moment I wish I’d paid more attention in 11th grade physics class. “This is like a 6,000-foot weather balloon,” Rick says as he waves goodbye and heads out, his entire body covered to protect himself from the elements. Marty, the Observatory’s official pet cat, licks itself on a nearby table and seems unimpressed.

The sun starts to slip down towards the western horizon, and it’s time to go. Jeff herds us back towards the Snow Cat after we bundle up again. It’s a quick walk to the Cat, and the temperature’s dropping. Our ride down goes quickly. Pete keeps the rig close to the edge, and huge chunks of snow and ice tumble down the mountainside as we lumber along. We’re mostly silent as the road cuts through the trees as we head towards the base.

Pete pulls to a stop, the group disperses, and within minutes everyone’s gone. The sun’s almost set, winter’s gray gloom takes over, and finally the wind’s died down. I’m exhausted but content, knowing I had a short taste of raw winter.